With the rapids as my guide dog

Saturday night we returned from Finland, and although home is where one's bed is, Tony and I are already daydreaming of returning.

We spent the majority of our time in Tampere. It lies between between two immense lakes (Näsijärvi to the north and Pyhäjärvi to the south) strung together by a thick band of rapids, giving the city a pulsing heart and making it marvelously simple to navigate.

Lining the banks of the rapids are old buildings of industrial times past, living a vibrant second life as indoor fresh food markets, shops filled with locally made goods, and restaurants serving up a wide range of cuisines.

I found the aesthetic of the city incredibly appealing; utilitarian in places, latticed with lush patches of green and rocky outcroppings, a definite pride in its history, and a definitive embracement of small business and all things handcrafted (without being touristy or inflating price points).

favorite shop: 

Pikku Putiikit. Per square meter of this narrow shop, I spent a disproportionately vast amount of time in this shop, poring over each item. Everything is made by local artisans, thoughtfully curated, and reasonably priced. I bought some really lovely things and will show you them tomorrow, scout's honor.

favorite eats: 

Tallipihan Kahvila Café. Located in the historic Finlayson stable yard, this place's quirky factor is through the roof. I took so many photos; around every corner I found something delightful. (Note: You can click on any of the smaller images for a larger version.)

Oh, and the food. Yum. I had a savory vegetable tart, a fizzy grapefruit drink, and a generous slice of lingonberry cake. Everything was tasty, but the latter was perfect- the actual cake was more tart than sweet, then iced with a creamy, sweet frosting and dotted with fresh lingonberries for a deliciously mouth-puckering aftertaste.

Afterwards, I snagged a few really unique postcards (by Julia Prusi) and a piece of flourless chocolate cake to share with Tony, then chatted with owner Susanna Laine for a while; she's absolutely darling and gracious.

Enjoy the rest of the tour! (Sorry there are so many photos of rocks. I loved the different shapes and textures; they really added to the city's character.)

xxx,
j